Known by travelers all over the world as “The Jewel of the Pacific”, the port city of Valparaíso is a city of Chile that you should not miss. From Santiago, it is a brief hour and a half bus ride with a very scenic view along the way. Once you arrive in the city, strap on your walking shoes, stretch your legs, and pick a hill!
La Sebastiana – Pablo Neruda’s House
The first stop I recommend is La Sebastiana, the house of the Chilean poet and Nobel Prize winner, Pablo Neruda. The five-story home/ museum offers some of the best 360-degree views of the city, while the audio tour offers a glimpse into the life of the eclectic Neruda. Photos are not allowed on the tour as there are security guards and video cameras everywhere. However, I recommend taking an extra second or two in Neruda’s fourth floor bathroom, which is too small for guards and cameras, but has windows large enough for pictures if you’re feeling daring.
Pablo Neruda once said, “A child who does not play is not a child, but the man who doesn’t play has lost forever the child who lived in him and who he will miss terribly.” That quote struck a chord with me and is one that everyone can take a minute to learn from.
Next up, make your way to Cerro Concepcion, which locals will say is the “safer” part of the city. Here you will find a plethora of restaurants, quaint shops, parks, and creatively artistic street art. For lunch, I recommend the Cafe del Pintor – the best bang for your buck meal I had throughout my stay in Chile.
Cafe Del Pintor
For roughly 6.900 Chilean Pesos (~$11-12 USD), you can indulge on a fixed menu that is both diverse and filling. For an appetizer, I skipped on the soup and went with the salad. I’m not sure what type of dressing was on this heavenly bed of leaves, but it might have been the best salad I have ever had. Next you can choose from about 5-7 selections for your main entree, ranging from steak, fish, and pasta, among several others. I went with the delicious Reineta al limon con Risotto (lemon marinated fish with mushroom risotto), pictured to the left. Finally, you have your choice of mousse, coffee, or espresso. I went with the espresso which was served with a frosted-tipped sugar cookie that ended the meal perfectly. I don’t rant and rave about food very often, so that says something special about this place.
Paseo 21 de Mayo
After lunch, and maybe a 20-minute nap, make your way south toward Paseo 21 de Mayo. The 100-year-old hillside tram, Ascensor Artilleria, used to be the primary way to the top of this hill, but either your feet or a cab will have to do as the tram is currently out of service. Here you’ll find another stunning viewpoint of the harbor and hillside of Valparaiso, along with vendors selling anything from handcrafts to paintings. If you’re feeling in the mood for a touch of history, you’re now only a few steps away from the Museo Maritimo Nacional. This maritime museum is filled with Chilean naval history and provides an even higher point of view of the city below.
So if you’re wondering how to spend a day in Valparaiso, these attractions will take you across the city from hill to hill, and should provide for your leg workout of the day. If walking isn’t your thing, there are cabs aplenty that are more than happy to cart you around, but after walking roughly 8-10 miles uphill throughout the day, I actually felt like I accomplished something. Not sure what that something was, but I felt proud afterward!
